Bánh Cuốn Nóng (Steamed Rice Crepe Rolls)

Pigs in a blanket...? No, maybe a very thin sheet? Let's go with that

Bánh cuốn nóng is often a breakfast dish, and what a damn good breakfast it makes! It consists of a very thin steamed rice flour crepe, which is filled with minced pork, wood ear mushrooms, and sometimes little shrimps. You’ll often get some Vietnamese sausage on the side, and/or what is essentially a fried shrimp muffin (shrimp are verboten for me, but I hear they’re excellent in this).

In the south, it will also often come with bean spouts and shredded lettuce (truly, Southern cuisine can be *extra* but in a good way, and Northern cuisine too simple). Top with crispy fried shallots, douse in fish sauce, chilis, and garlic, and go to town.

There’s also another closely related dish that these restaurants also serve, called bánh cuốn trứng, where the thin rice flour crepe is traded for what is essentially the same thin crepe but made of eggs. It’s also excellent!

Bánh cuốn nóng is my all-time favorite Vietnamese breakfast dish, HANDS DOWN, so believe me when I say, these are three excellent options that really showcase everything it takes to make a meal to remember.

Bánh Cuốn Bắc

Hours: 6:30am-9pm Friday-Wednesday, 6:30am-7:30pm Thursday

Address: 21A Đ. Bùi Thị Xuân, Phường Phạm Ngũ Lão, Quận 1

https://maps.app.goo.gl/yGi3HturZgqFshF5A

Regional differences in dishes can sometimes be pretty extreme, and people often strongly prefer either Northern or Southern cuisine. These delicious rolls come from the North in particular and lack a few of the things that are more common in the southern versions - fillings are often more simple, while many Southern joints will go ham and just toss it all into a single roll. There’s not really much difference, otherwise.

While they may be simpler, they’re no less tasty. In particular, I love the pork only option, and they aren’t stingy with the fried shallots - the crispiness compliments the smooth crepes perfectly.

Bánh Cuốn Chợ Bàn Cờ

Hours: 7am-11am

Address: 174/28 Đ. Nguyễn Thiện Thuật, Phường 3, Quận 3

https://maps.app.goo.gl/7h65DwioZHbpazwd8

I haven’t featured a marketplace restaurant in a while, but this one is a double whammy. Not only are they serving up fantastic breakfast, it’s in what I believe to be HCMC’s most unique market. Chợ Bàn Cờ (Bàn Cờ Market) is not in a typical single building, but instead operates in a very dense residential block where the shops are run out of the individual houses. It’s a crazy busy spot to visit in the morning, and this is a great place to get breakfast during the busiest hours. Perfect for people watching and picking up your morning groceries.

Oh, and the crepes are phenomenal. That, too. But do try to get here before it gets too hot - the space only has about 10 seats and gets very stuffy, very fast.

Bánh Cuốn Thiên Hương

Hours: 6am-8pm

Address: 179A Đ. 3 Tháng 2, Phường 11, Quận 10

https://maps.app.goo.gl/WXCq2EzXcEkuwSSRA

And, as I so often do, I’m saving my favorite for last. This deceptively large shop is always bustling - it’s definitely not a secret! - and for very good reason. The crepe rolls are fantastic and served in the southern style with the mushrooms included in the filling. They also serve the egg version and while I’ve seen people ask for one rice and one egg, I am sorry to report that I have never tried that - best to just come back (oh no, what a shame).

The national pagoda is just down the street, so if you’re visiting that this makes a great meal before or after. Sadly there’s a noticeable dearth of cafes along this stretch (it’s a major thoroughfare), but if you explore some of the alleys you’ll usually find something to drink.

All in all, this is a must-try dish if you’re visiting the country, and if you live here and have a favorite spot, I beg you to share. It’s savory, a little sweet, soft, crispy, and absolutely sets you up for a great day!

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-Ben