For the longest time I thought I didn’t like Bún Bò Huế, but it turns out I was just having consistently mediocre Bún Bò - these places were game changers for me!
Bún bò Huế (or bún bò for short) is vermicelli noodles with sliced beef, chả Huế (a sorta-kinda sausage, but flat and not encased in intestines), and sometimes pork knuckle (none for me, thanks). The dish originated in - surprise - Huế, a cuisine I’ve covered in a few posts, and is a major favorite among Vietnamese people, often taking the top spot.
The broth is savory, with salty, sweet, and sometimes lightly spicy notes, and when it’s really good it feels like you could drink a cup of it straight. You’ll also get a plate of greens on the side - sometimes fresh, sometimes parboiled - usually consisting of a mix of shredded banana flower (both young and mature), bean sprouts, herbs, and cabbage which you can mix in as you like.
I’m officially a convert (took me long enough!) - and here are the spots that changed my mind.
Ma Oi
Hours: Monday-Friday 7am-8:30pm, Sunday 7am-2pm
Address: 59 Thạch Thị Thanh, Phường Tân Định, Quận 1
https://maps.app.goo.gl/76yG5WCTnc9pdqWn8
A stellar option in a little joint that does this dish exactly one way, in three sizes. At 50k VND for a small bowl that looks like a big bowl, 60k for a medium bowl that looks like a bigger bowl, and 70k for a big bowl that I assume is basically a vat, there’s no way to go wrong here.
The side vegetables can be ordered either fresh or parboiled, although I always get mine fresh, just dump them in the hot soup, and stir. The broth is lighter than average and a little less salty, which is fine by me, and the chả Huế was particularly awesome - there’s even more wrapped in banana leaves on the table for a small extra charge if you so desire. It may look like a bare-bones shop but the soup is anything but boring.
(These pics are both small orders, if you can believe it! I could not have possibly finished a larger size and mad respect to anyone who can.)
Bún Bò Hậu Bến Ngự
Hours: 6:30am-11:30pm
Address: 32 Hồ Hảo Hớn, Phường Cô Giang, Quận 1
https://maps.app.goo.gl/Wr95t5qjmfwLr6HB7
Award for tiniest shop you can imagine goes to this banger which is around the corner from a neighborhood full of great cafes and food. The soup is outstanding and full of flavor, with a generous portion of meat. The owner was exceedingly friendly and the noodles were perfectly cooked, with a lot of high quality beef included in the standard bowl.
There are only a few tables and chairs, but it’s open from early morning to later than other places for those late night cravings and everything in between.
Bún Bò 5T
Hours: 6am-10pm
Address: 70 Nguyễn Trường Tộ, Phường 12, Quận 4
https://maps.app.goo.gl/Mok6N4EDAhogCi278
Perhaps the most well-known of these three is this restaurant which has a couple different branches - I’ve only been to the District 4 location. It’s knock-your-socks-off soup - available in a variety of variations, including with wagyu. I don’t know about all that, but I can tell you that the basic option I got was phenomenal, and I can see why it’s so popular, and rated so highly.
They also have house-pickled shallots and garlic, which are excellent additions to an already impressive bowl of beef noods.
Reader, I am ashamed it took me so long to come around to this dish - but it’s proof that even after all this time in Vietnam I’m still finding new things to love.
Enjoy and beware of noodle-slurping splatters!
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Glad you found to love this superlative bowl of noodles. When you want to level it up get the blood cake, rau muống, and extra mắm tôm.
Good recommendations. Next time I’m in town I’ll treat you to my favorite spot.